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Showing posts with label Useful. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Useful. Show all posts

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Shopping For Car Insurance Quotes Online - Useful Tips For All Drivers

You definitely do not want to pay a lot for auto insurance, and the good news is that you do not have to. The best way to find the most affordable and beneficial bargain is to do your shopping on the internet. Apart from being effective, the process is very quick and extremely convenient. You should definitely get car insurance quotes online. The really great thing is that you do not have to pay a cent for the service.


However, this shopping method might be a bit confusing especially for people who have never searched for and bought a policy on the internet. So, you definitely need some advice and guidance before you begin. It is essential that you get everything right so that you do not get disappointed in the end.


It is important for you to obtain as many car insurance quotes online as possible. You should collect various offers from different insurers. All you have to do is visit a website for quotes. Then you can get redirected to the web pages of any insurer of your choice. Then you will have to fill in a form to get the actual offer. It is true that this is a bit time consuming, but it is definitely worth doing it. Fortunately, you can speed up the process.


You will be asked to fill in details on your driving and insurance history. You will also be asked a few questions about your vehicle and how you use it. So, it is best to be prepared to give precise answers to these questions. This will save you time, but more importantly you will you will get a quote that is quite accurate. You need to have your driving record at hand. You should definitely request a copy from the respective local authorities in advance since you will need to present it to the insurer eventually.


You also have to have a copy of the contract you have signed when purchasing your present auto insurance. Generally, you need to know the details of your policy. Also, you have to know what model your car is and when it was produced. You have to write the mileage down so in order to get the most accurate number you have to check the odometer in your car.


It is best for you to have an idea about the type and amount of coverage that you want to get as part of your policy. You can readily decide on an approximate premium sum that you are prepared to pay even before requesting car insurance quotes online. You have to take into account your monthly budget as well as how useful the different kinds of coverage can be to you. You should also aim for higher limits at least on the mandatory covers.


When you shop for car insurance quotes online you should be careful about the security of your personal details. It is a good idea for you to check the how your privacy of the information you provide is guaranteed. Most reputable companies give the necessary details to their potential customers.


This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

Monday, June 20, 2011

21 + Useful insurance terms you should know

INSURED - A person or a corporation who contracts for an insurance policy that indemnifies (protects) him against loss or damage to property or, in the case of a liability policy, defend him against a claim from a third party.

NAMED INSURED - Any person, firm or corporation specifically designated by name as an insured(s) in a policy as distinguished from others who, though unnamed, are protected under some circumstances. For example, a common application of this latter principle is in auto liability policies wherein by a definition of "insured", coverage is extended to other drivers using the car with the permission of the named insured. Other parties can also be afforded protection of an insurance policy by being named an "additional insured" in the policy or endorsement.
ADDITIONAL INSURED - An individual or entity that is not automatically included as an insured under the policy of another, but for whom the named insureds policy provides a certain degree of protection. An endorsement is typically required to effect additional insured status. The named insureds impetus for providing additional insured status to others may be a desire to protect the other party because of a close relationship with that party (e.g., employees or members of an insured club) or to comply with a contractual agreement requiring the named insured to do so (e.g., customers or owners of property leased by the named insured).
CO-INSURANCE - The sharing of one insurance policy or risk between two or more insurance companies. This usually entails each insurer paying directly to the insured their respective share of the loss. Co-insurance can also be the arrangement by which the insured, in consideration of a reduced rate, agrees to carry an amount of insurance equal to a percentage of the total value of the property insured. An example is if you have guaranteed to carry insurance up to 80% or 90% of the value of your building and/or contents, whatever the case may be. If you don't, the company pays claims only in proportion to the amount of coverage you do carry.
The following equation is used to determine what amount may be collected for partial loss:
Amount of Insurance Carried x Loss
Amount of Insurance that = Payment
Should be Carried
Example A Mr. Right has an 80% co-insurance clause and the following situation:
$100,000 building value
$ 80,000 insurance carried
$ 10,000 building loss
By applying the equation for determining payment for partial loss, the following amount may be collected:
$80,000 x $10,000 = $10,000
$80,000
Mr. Right recovers the full amount of his loss because he carried the coverage specified in his co-insurance clause.
Example B Mr. Wrong has an 80% co-insurance clause and the following situation:
$100,000 building value
$ 70,000 insurance carried
$ 10,000 building loss
By applying the equation for determining payment for partial loss, the following amount may be collected:
$70,000 x $10,000 = $8,750
$80,000
Mr. Wrong's loss of $10,000 is greater than the company's limit of liability under his co-insurance clause. Therefore, Mr. Wrong becomes a self-insurer for the balance of the loss-- $1,250.
PREMIUM - The amount of money paid by an insured to an insurer for insurance coverage.
DEDUCTIBLE - The first dollar amount of a loss for which the insured is responsible before benefits are paid by the insurer; similar to a self-insured retention (SIR). The insurer's liability begins when the deductible is exhausted.
SELF INSURED RETENTION - Acts the same way as a deductible but the insured is responsible for all legal fees incurred in relation to the amount of the SIR.
POLICY LIMIT - The maximum monetary amount an insurance company is responsible for to the insured under its policy of insurance.
FIRST PARTY INSURANCE - Insurance that applies to coverage for an insureds own property or a person. Traditionally it covers damage to insureds property from whatever causes are covered in the policy. It is property insurance coverage. An example of first party insurance is BUILDERS RISK INSURANCE which is insurance against loss to the rigs or vessels in the course of their construction. It only involves the insurance company and the owner of the rig and/or the contractor who has a financial interest in the rig.
THIRD PARTY INSURANCE - Liability insurance covering the negligent acts of the insured against claims from a third party (i.e., not the insured or the insurance company - a third party to the insurance policy). An example of this insurance would be SHIP REPAIRER'S LEGAL LIABILITY (SRLL) - provides protection for contractors repairing or altering a customer's vessel at their shipyard, other locations or at sea; also covers the insured while the customer's property is under the "Care, Custody and Control" of the insured. A Commercial General Liability policy is needed for other coverages, such as slip-and-fall situations.
INSURABLE INTEREST - Any interest in something that is the subject of an insurance policy or any legal relationship to that subject that will trigger a certain event causing monetary loss to the insured. Example of insurable interest - ownership of a piece of property or an interest in that piece of property, e.g., a shipyard constructing a rig or vessel. (See BUILDERS RISK above)
LIABILITY INSURANCE - Insurance coverage that protects an insured against claims made by third parties for damage to their property or person. These losses usually come about as a result of negligence of the insured. In marine construction this policy is referred to an MGL, marine general liability policy. In non marine circumstances the policy is referred to as a CGL, commercial general liability policy. Insurance policies can be divided into two broad categories:
First party insurance covers the property of the person who purchases the insurance policy. For example, a home owner's policy promising to pay for fire damage to the home owner's home is a first party policy. Liability insurance, sometimes called third party insurance, covers the policy holder's liability to other people. For example, a homeowners' policy might cover liability if someone trips and falls on the home owner's property. Sometimes one policy, such as in these examples, may have both first and third party coverage. Liability insurance provides two separate benefits. First, the policy will cover the damage incurred by the third party. Sometimes this is called providing "indemnity" for the loss. Second, most liability policies provide a duty to defend. The duty to defend requires the insurance company to pay for lawyers, expert witnesses, and court costs to defend the third party's claim. These costs can sometimes be substantial and should not be ignored when facing a liability claim.
UMBRELLA LIABILITY COVERAGE - This type of liability insurance provides excess liability protection. Your business needs this coverage for the following three reasons:
It provides excess coverage over the "underlying" liability insurance you carry. It provides coverage for all other liability exposures, excepting a few specifically excluded exposures. This subject to a large deductible of about $10,000 to $25,000. It provides automatic replacement coverage for underlying policies that have been reduced or exhausted by loss.
NEGLIGENCE - The failure to use reasonable care. The doing of something which a reasonably prudent person would not do, or the failure to do something which a reasonably prudent person would do under like circumstances. Negligence is a 'legal cause' of damage if it directly and in natural and continuous sequence produces or contributes substantially to producing such damage, so it can reasonably be said that if not for the negligence, the loss, injury or damage would not have occurred.
GROSS NEGLIGENCE - A carelessness and reckless disregard for the safety or lives of others, which is so great it appears to be almost a conscious violation of other people's rights to safety. It is more than simple negligence, but it is just short of being willful misconduct. If gross negligence is found by the trier of fact (judge or jury), it can result in the award of punitive damages on top of general and special damages, in certain jurisdictions.
WILLFUL MISCONDUCT - An intentional action with knowledge of its potential to cause serious injury or with a reckless disregard for the consequences of such act.
PRODUCT LIABILITY - Liability which results when a product is negligently manufactured and sent into the stream of commence. A liability that arises from the failure of a manufacturer to properly manufacture, test or warn about a manufactured object.
MANUFACTURING DEFECTS - When the product departs from its intended design, even if all possible care was exercised.
DESIGN DEFECTS - When the foreseeable risks of harm posed by the product could have been reduced or avoided by the adoption of a reasonable alternative design, and failure to use the alternative design renders the product not reasonably safe.
INADEQUATE INSTRUCTIONS OR WARNINGS DEFECTS - When the foreseeable risks of harm posed by the product could have been reduced or avoided by reasonable instructions or warnings, and their omission renders the product not reasonably safe.
PROFESSIONAL LIABILITY INSURANCE - Liability insurance to indemnify professionals, (doctors, lawyers, architects, engineers, etc.,) for loss or expense which the insured professional shall become legally obliged to pay as damages arising out of any professional negligent act, error or omission in rendering or failing to render professional services by the insured. Same as malpractice insurance.
Professional Liability has expanded over the years to include those occupations in which special knowledge, skills and close client relationships are paramount. More and more occupations are considered professional occupations, as the trend in business continues to grow from a manufacturing-based economy to a service-oriented economy. Coupled with the litigious nature of our society, the companies and staff in the service economy are subject to greater exposure to malpractice claims than ever before.
ERRORS AND OMISSIONS - Same as malpractice or professional liability insurance.
HOLD HARMLESS AGREEMENT - A contractual arrangement whereby one party assumes the liability inherent in the situation, thereby relieving the other party of responsibility. For example, a lease of premises may provide that the lessee must "hold harmless" the lessor for any liability from accidents arising out of the premises.
INDEMNIFY - To restore the victim of a loss, in whole or in part, by payment, repair, or replacement.
INDEMNITY AGREEMENTS - Contract clauses that identify who is to be responsible if liabilities arise and often transfer one party's liability for his or her wrongful acts to the other party.
WARRANTY - An agreement between a buyer and a seller of goods or services detailing the conditions under which the seller will make repairs or fix problems without cost to the buyer.
Warranties can be either expressed or implied. An EXPRESS WARRANTY is a guarantee made by the seller of the goods which expressly states one of the conditions attached to the sale e.g.,"This item is guaranteed against defects in construction for one year".
An IMPLIED WARRANTY is usual in common law jurisdictions and attached to the sale of goods by operation of law made on behalf of the manufacturer. These warranties are not usually in writing. Common implied warranties are a warranty of fitness for use (implied by law that if a seller knows the particular purpose for which the item is purchased certain guarantees are implied) and a warranty of merchantability (a warranty implied by law that the goods are reasonably fit for the general purpose for which they are sold).
DAMAGES OR LOSS - The monetary consequence which results from injury to a thing or a person.
CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES - As opposed to direct loss or damage -- is indirect loss or damage resulting from loss or damage caused by a covered peril, such as fire or windstorm. In the case of loss caused where windstorm is a covered peril, if a tree is blown down and cuts electricity used to power a freezer and the food in the freezer spoils, if the insurance policy extends coverage for consequential loss or damage then the food spoilage would be a covered loss. Business Interruption insurance, extends consequential loss or damage coverage for such items as extra expenses, rental value, profits and commissions, etc.
LIQUIDATED DAMAGES - Are a payment agreed to by the parties of a contract to satisfy portions of the agreement which were not performed. In some cases liquidated damages may be the forfeiture of a deposit or a down payment, or liquidated damages may be a percentage of the value of the contract, based on the percentage of work uncompleted. Liquidated damages are often paid in lieu of a lawsuit, although court action may be required in many cases where liquidated damages are sought. Liquidated damages, as opposed to a penalty, are sometimes paid when there is uncertainty as to the actual monetary loss involved. The payment of liquidated damages relieves the party in breech of a contract of the obligation to perform the balance of the contract.
SUBROGATION - "To stand in the place of" Usually found in property policies (first party) when an insurance company pays a loss to an insured or damaged to the insureds property, the insurer stands in the shoes of the insured and may pursue any third party who might be responsible for the loss. For example, if a defective component is sold to a manufacturer to be used in his product and that product is damaged due to the defective component. The insurance company who pays the loss to the manufacturer of the product may sue the manufacturer of the defective component.
Subrogation has a number of sub-principles namely:
The insurer cannot be subrogated to the insureds right of action until it has paid the insured and made good the loss. The insurer can be subrogated only to actions which the insured would have brought himself. The insured must not prejudice the insurer's right of subrogation. Thus, the insured may not compromise or renounce any right of action he has against the third party if by doing so he could diminish the insurer's right of recovery. Subrogation against the insurer. Just as the insured cannot profit from his loss the insurer may not make a profit from the subrogation rights. The insurer is only entitled to recover the exact amount they paid as indemnity, and nothing more. If they recover more, the balance should be given to the insured. Subrogation gives the insurer the right of salvage.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Useful tips for kitchen buyers

Where do I start?
Having decided that your kitchen is in need of a revamp you now have to plan what features it will have. It may be that you require more work and cupboard space. Your existing appliances may not offer you the specifications you require and your lighting may be inadequate. Whatever your needs you need to identify the design that best suits your needs and here we'll attempt to assist you with our view on how best to achieve this.
Kitchen layouts fall into four categories:
" Galley or corridor - For narrow rooms with an entry and exit point at opposite ends.

" One wall kitchen - More popular in apartment dwellings where space is at a premium

" L-shaped - If the existing room is interrupted by doors entering on two adjoining walls but wide enough to accommodate corner cabinets, an L-shaped kitchen is the most appropriate configuration.

" U-shaped kitchens are suitable for rooms uninterrupted on three elevations and in some cases, if the room is wide enough, the U shape may return as a peninsular or against the fourth entry wall

Add to the above the ability to incorporate an island configuration in your room and you have ability to determine which style of kitchen best suits your room. Most importantly in the order of priority, recording the dimensions of your room is the first task.
Measuring up for your kitchen
Next up is measuring your room in a way that will ensure easy transfer of your plans to paper.

Proceed as follows

" Measure ceiling heights - Cabinets come in a variety of heights and your floor to ceiling height will determine which height cabinet is best suited to your room.

" Measure up your windows and doors - in addition measure the distances from each side of the aperture to the adjacent walls, from the lower sill to the floor and from the ceiling to the upper reveal of the window. The rules here also apply for any protrusions such as boxing in or pillars.

" When measuring lengths between walls hold the tape measure 600mm from the each end to simulate how the cabinet fronts will sit. This, of course, is easier if you are measuring over existing cabinetry and a centre mark will provide more accuracy if you measure to it from both sides and add the measurements.

" Check for plumb (vertical level) - It is advisable to rectify any defective plastering prior to the installation of cupboards and where a right angled corner wall cupboard is being installed it is essential that the relevant plastering is square and plumb to ensure a satisfactory alignment of the installation. You risk affecting the correct alignment of extractor and hob if attention is not given to out of plumb walls.

" Check floor levels - use a long spirit level to determine the level of your floor and, using the "600mm rule"(measuring this distance from the wall to simulate the plinth), will determine if any rectification or floor-leveling compound is required prior to installation. The criteria for an acceptable finish is in your own hands but I would suggest that a difference in level of more than 15mm will require pre-leveling before installing cabinets.

" Services - determine the dimension of any services that are sited in your kitchen such as mains water pipes, soil pipes or mains electricity/gas supplies. Again, measure their relative distance from both elevations and detail these in your plan before commencing design. Transferring them to your plan will avoid any complications with appliance obstruction. Cabinetry can always be altered to accommodate services but appliances can't.

" Checking your corner for square - As the standard worktop size is 600mm, a square template approximately this size will give you the best indication of a whether your corner is square. A shelf or purpose made square placed against the corner will determine any rectification work required before installation. Of course worktops can be scribed to suit the contours of the wall but it is advisable to achieve as square as possible a finish for aesthetic purposes.
Replacement doors and worktops
Of course, some of the above can be ignored if you are simply replacing doors and worktops but you will need to detail the position of existing hinge holes to make for easier replacement.

Here are the rules to make for easier installation.

" Measure the centres between hinge holes on your existing doors. To make this easier, mark a pencil line at the back of the hinge inside the cabinets using a straight edge to ensuring each line is central to the hinge. Measure the distance between the points and record this in millimetres.

" Next you will need to measure from the bottom of each door to the centre of the bottom hinge. Again, use a straight edge to mark the centre line of the hinge, this time on the door itself and measure from the bottom of the door to the marked line.

" Measure the door size in mm and record it's opening configuration - left hand or right hand hinge. Compile a list of your doors, detailing the door as a base, larder or wall unit fascia.
For example:
Configuration Height Width Handed Quantity

Wall Unit 717mm 297mm Left 1

Wall Unit 717mm 297mm Right 2

Base Unit 717mm 397mm Left 2

Base Unit 717mm 597mm Right 3
If a door is integrated, measuring will be difficult without removal of the appliance but a pattern may emerge showing that all the doors are consistently equidistant between hinge holes. If this is the case then it's more than likely that integrated doors are bored similar and record it as such.
A good tip when measuring hinge hole centres is to commence measuring from the 100mm mark on your tape measure. Align it with the pre-marked pencil line and measure to the line marking the next hinge. This will offer a greater accuracy but don't forget to subtract 100mm from the measurement before recording it to paper.
Worktops will present less of a problem and all that is required is to detail the size in width, length and depth.
Design matters
How to choose a design for your kitchen and things to take into consideration when you are choosing doors?
Will they be in keeping with your existing house design? A traditional design may not sit well if the rest of the environment is modern and vice versa.
Colour is important and if you aren't planning to redecorate your kitchen, you choose should a colour to contrast well with your existing decor. Darker door finishes may require increased lighting and should be contrasted with lighter worktops or flooring.
If you want to minimise the cleaning of your doors choose a plain design that can be wiped down easily with a cloth. A PVC edged laminated design is a popular choice and requires less maintenance than a paneled door.
Consider the implications of pets or children and choose a hard-wearing exterior to avoid potential damage. Pine, for instance, would be a mistake if your dog has a tendency to use the doors as a scratching post while your filling it's food dish.
Handles can radically alter the design of your door and, like doors, they fall into many categories. Although there are no hard fast rules it's better to choose modern designs for contemporary doors and traditional designs for classic style fascias.
Worktop Choice
Now more than ever, you have an immense choice of work surfaces and in selecting one you will, no doubt, view cost as a consideration. Laminates still provide the most popular choice but an increasing number of people are considering alternatives such as granite, Corian worktops, Quartz worktops, stainless steel and even glass. In any case it is advisable to use a protective board when cutting on any surface despite the claims made by some retailers.
How do I choose where my cabinets and appliances fit in my kitchen?
Many of you may have heard of the kitchen triangle. The kitchen triangle is simply the importance of the proximity of your three main functional kitchen components - sink, cooker and fridge.
This isn't to say that they should be fitted as close as possible to each other but within comfortable limits is the criteria most designers aim for.
With the increasing popularity of range cookers and American style fridges, it is becoming more of a challenge to designers wishing to incorporate the triangle in a kitchen.
This is due to the larger sizes required to incorporate these appliances. Increased appliance space reduces the amount of storage space in a kitchen.
To retain the aesthetics of certain kitchens it may be necessary to forsake the distance factor particularly if you are intent on buying the appliances you want.
Consideration must be given to waste services and sinks, waste water appliances such as dishwasher and washing machines are best sited on a wall with an exterior elevation. One rule of design, unless it isn't possible, is to locate your sink below a window. Should this not be possible consider a bridging unit or flyover with an integrated light source to brighten the sink area.
A dishwasher is always best located next to a sink for service and drainage reasons as well as convenience.
Again, there are no hard fast rules and if you really want to incorporate an appliance that enlarges the triangle it doesn't render your design a bad one, as long as it suits your needs it is your own work of art.
Where do I start placing cabinets?
Design should always begin in a corner of your room. You have a large choice of cabinet sizes and corner cabinets are available in three configurations L-shaped, diagonal and conventional cabinets with a hidden corner. For diagonal and L-shaped corner cabinets you must allow 900mm on both elevations.
Conventional corner cabinets are fitted to the elevation of your choice and extend 570mm from the chosen wall. As standard size worktops are 600mm deep, the door size you choose will ensure that the cabinet fitted is relevant to the worktop depth. Therefore a left-hand corner base unit with a 400mm door will extend 1000mm or beyond (Dependent on the corner fillet size required), from the corner to its outer gable.
A 500mm door will extend 1100mm or beyond from the corner, a 600mm door will extend 1200mm or beyond from the corner and so on.
This rule will change if your worktops are deeper, so if using a 650mm worktop the measurement increases by at least 50mm and a 700mm worktop increases the measurement by at least 100mm.

Your design software will automatically configure distances for corner cabinets yet the above details are relevant if you are one of the increasing number of people who have decided to install their own kitchen.
You may have noted that I have not been fully precise in detailing the distance that a corner unit should be sited from the adjacent wall and there is good reason for this.
The variety of handle designs available can differ greatly in their distance from the front of the door and if installing a kitchen with deep handles, extra care and preparation must be afforded in the corners.
The result of fitting a standard corner fillet may mean that the corner cabinet drawers will not open fully due to the opposite cabinets handle infringing on an adjacent drawer. This can be compensated for by the construction of a wider corner fillet that allows full extension of the drawer.
To avoid a problem it is advisable to allow sufficient planning space if your design may present you with a similar problem.
Do you need design assistance?
Do you need more storage and workspace? Are aesthetics your main concern? Better traffic flow? A quiet, bright morning breakfast spot? What bothers you about your existing kitchen? Is eating in the kitchen important?
Sometimes it's difficult to visualise what you require from your design and the assistance of a designer to bring out these elements would be of great benefit.
Often, designers will ask you to describe your daily routine to determine the best design solutions to achieve your objectives, in and around the kitchen area.
There are a number of easy to use design programmes available to the consumer on a trial basis and although they are aimed more as a taster for designers, they are sufficient to complete a one off design of your own kitchen on a plan that can be presented to your chosen supplier for quotation.
Should design not be your forte and you would like others to bring your ideas to life then a number of designers now offer their services over the internet.
Installation issues
Are your existing electrical and plumbing services adequate for your new kitchen?
As the kitchen houses a number of appliances, it is imperative that your electrical supply is sufficient to withstand the demands placed on it. The same is true of water, waste and gas supplies and it is strongly advised to undertake a pre-installation check of all services.
A plumbing and electrical layout correlated to your final design is well worth consideration. This will shorten installation time, allow you to hire your own contractors if you wish and, most importantly, offer you peace of mind in the knowledge that future service problems can be averted.
Should you require a services dimension plan it is advisable to arrange for one on ordering your kitchen to allow you sufficient time to schedule and complete the preparation before installation commences.
How to choose an installer.
At present there are no industry standards required to ply your trade as a kitchen/bathroom installer and the plain fact is that you are taking pot luck by contacting an unknown quantity who has decided to title him/herself as one.
There are, however, a number of steps you can take to avoid the possibility of your new kitchen looking worse than your old one.
" Use your judgment of character when speaking to a candidate to install your kitchen. It's important that you liase with your installer whilst the job is in progress and difficult if you can't communicate with each other.

" Use the conversation to find out how long they have been in business

" Determine a guarantee period offered for the work undertaken

" Ask to view a previous installation.

" Discover if they have any relevant qualifications and memberships

" Are they insured for public liability?

" What tools do they carry? Do they have a worktop jig, router and mitre saw - essential kitchen fitting tools are a good indication of credibility

" Determine their plumbing and electrical knowledge, experience and qualifications to undertake this type of work.

" Try to Arrange a site visit two weeks before the installation. You will learn a lot more about the person that you are about to employ

" As with any trade, good kitchen installers are worth waiting for, so contact one well in advance of your project commencing.

When you're happy with your choice of installer there are a number of other issues to discuss with him/her and this is best achieved when contacting the installer to let them know you wish him/her to undertake the installation.
Below is a list of further considerations you should discuss with an installer.
1. Vehicle access - How close can a vehicle park to the work area?

2. Vehicle parking - Once unloaded, where can a vehicle be parked? Will it be safe in the space you suggest?

3. Rubbish removal - Will a skip be required?

4. Entry restrictions - It's often a problem trying to fit a large cabinet through a tiny porch and certain cabinets may need to be delivered as flat packs if access is a problem.

5. Work area - allocate one to the installer during the site visit, and reserve it as his/hers on commencement day. It also helps to mention that certain trades (painters or floor finishers) will have a difficult time working in the same room while the kitchen is being installed.

6. Furnishings/belongings removed - A day or two prior to installation remove all furniture and belongings from the room and empty the cupboards.

7. Floor protection - If the flooring has been completed before installation it will need protecting.

8. Dust protection - the homeowner will never fault you for being too careful about dust protection. Sheets taped to house entry points will minimise dust spreading throughout the rest of the house.

9. Power - How many outlets are there, and how far away? There are a limited number of trades that can share a power circuit.

10. Keys - It's difficult have a kitchen fitted if your installer can't gain entry.

11. Job noise - In a large refurbishment noise levels can reach hair pulling proportions so be prepared and if your neighbour works a night shift it's good advice to let them know of your project prior to commencement of the work.

12. Working hours - Give the installer an indication of start/finish times

13. Plumbing/electrical - These are critical areas. Check box heights and plumbing preparation. If preparation hasn't been completed, go over the information with your installer should he be completing the work.

14. Room lighting - Look for conflicts between lighting locations and cabinet placement. Recessed ceiling lights may be positioned in such a way that they end up directly over a refrigerator.

15. Appliance details - It helps to give your installer a list of appliances to be fitted and, if possible, their specifications

16. Children/animals - As your installer will be using some heavy machinery you will need to make sure that children or animals cannot gain access to the work area.

17. Bathroom privileges - Ensure your fitter knows where to go
Well, I hope this information proves useful in assisting you to achieve a trouble free and satisfactory installation and if you feel competent enough don't rule out the possibility of saving yourself a substantial amount by having a go at fitting the cabinetry yourself but remember the health and safety issues above all else.

 
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